How to see Recoleta (on a budget) in a day
Recoleta is known for being a more upscale area of Buenos Aires, complete with grand mansions and abundant high-end boutiques, but we were more interested in its historical attractions and beautiful parks. Our journey started by taking the Subte (Subway) where we get off at the closest stop to the Recoleta Cemetary (free), Pueyrredon. We walked about nine blocks to the entrance and caught glimpses of opulent tombs peeking over the grand wall surrounding the Cemetary. It was an eerie look at where many of the most affluent people of Buenos Aires are entombed.
We found many tombs that had been flawlessly cared for, but some that sadly had been weathered by years of neglect. One wooden coffin, for instance, had fallen over and the full skeleton was strewn across the floor.
Brittany and I were both taken by the individual stories of the deceased and their families, as well as the intricate sculptures and marble-work that graced many of the tombs. We discovered Eva Peron's tomb near the center of the Cemetary covered in plaques and flowers by her supporters.
Afterwards, we walked over to Buller Brewing Company, located across the Plaza from the Cemetary. We shared a sampling ($30AR) of the six house brews (Honey Beer and Oktoberfest were our favorites!) and split nachos and a grilled chicken caesar salad. It was delicious and while Buller offers many 'American' options on the menu, the presentation and ingredients were different than in the states.
On weekends, the Plaza Intendente Alvear is full of vendors selling everything from fresh squeezed orange juice to clothing and art. It's a great place to sip mate and listen to local musicians strum a few bars on their guitars.
Walking further north we came to the Floralis Generica, a giant metal sculpture of a flower that opens and closes throughout the day. It lights up at night but we loved seeing the reflection of the water upon its metal face during the afternoon.
Next we went to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (free), just steps from the Floralis. It houses an incredible collection of works from Degas, Rembrandt, Picasso and Kandinksy, including Rodin's 'The Kiss'. Be sure to get water from a nearby vendor before entering, as there is no food or drink allowed inside.
After an afternoon walking through Recoleta, we rested our feet and cooled off with a hearty scoop of Freddo's delicious, gelato style ice cream. I'd say a pretty great way to end a pretty great day!
